To the Gulf and Home Again

Its remarkable just how much you can do in a few days.

I left Brisbane last Tuesday morning for Mt.Isa aboard the Flying Kangaroo. Constable Plod had returned to the Isa from her holiday at Alice and the Rock so she met me and we left at lunch time for Normanton.

Naturally a quick stop at the Burke and Wills Roadhouse before continuing on

Then to Normanton. Funny thing, Monday night both in different places and both thinking of the Gulflander Train and both searching the web. Great minds think alike. Timing couldn’t have been better as it leaves Normanton at 8.30 each Wednesday morning for Croydon. So 8.00 am saw us at the station ready for our day out

It was a very interesting trip to Croydon and no mail or deliveries this morning, our only stop other than morning tea was for cattle on the line

Arrived at Croydon round 1.30 and then some relaxing time to take in the sights (and the pub) . What a nice little town.

Then back on the bus to Normanton where we took in the Big Croc and of course a photo of probably one of the most photographed hotels in Australia

We then decided that seeing we were just so close to Kurumba we might as well make the effort and have a look.

So the tent was down so fast and we headed for the water. Made it to Kurumba in time to get my tent up again and be ready for the sunset. And what a wonderful sight to be sitting at the Sunset Hotel looking out over the Gulf.

A beautiful meal at a local restaurant finished off what was a most enjoyable day.

We left in the morning and drove back through Croydon again and Mt.Surprise and decided to spend the night at Innot Hot Springs. That was also a wonderful way to spend the evening.

From there we headed through Ravenshoe and Milla Milla and down to the cost to just south of Innisfail. Through the outskirts of Townsville, to Charters Towers then to Clermont for Friday night , Mundubbera Saturday night and we arrived home yesterday morning. At least I did, then Plod had to go on from here. So in five and a half days we travelled a fair distance. Thanks for having me along for the ride, I enjoyed it immensely.

Back to the River

It doesn’t take much for us to head for our favourite camping spot. A mention by a friend at a 4WD meeting that he would like to try out his new caravan bush camping soon had four couples making tracks to the river for five days of relaxation. Two vans on their maiden voyages so plenty to keep the men happy fiddling and tweaking.

The river always looks good

Acting like teenagers floating down the river on tubes, gee this retired life isn’t bad

Poo and the dog enjoying themselves

Good chance too for me to try out the new Webber Baby Q.

Bread was the first try. Made a great small loaf, just perfect for Poo’s lunch

Then carrot cake for morning tea. Cooling, waiting to be iced. Delicious

We also cooked scones, a larger loaf of bread and a roast and all other meals for the five days were cooked on the Webber. Not a failure. Definitely, a good investment. Lives up to the accolades given it on the forum.

So another great time with once again, great company as always. We are so lucky to have a wonderful haven so close to our homes. Yet as we sit round the fire, you could be miles and miles away from civilization.

This week sees me flying to Mt.Isa to spend a week driving back with Constable Plod who has just enjoyed a holiday to Alice and the Rock. So its tenting for mother and daughter as we make our way back through Qld. Wonder what I’ll have to report on that trip?

Lasting Memories

Well, that’s another adventure over. We left our ship in Longyearbyen on Tuesday morning and after many connections which had us landing at Tromso, Oslo, Copenhagen and Bangkok we finally arrived in Sydney on Thursday morning. We spent the night with our daughter and son-in-law and then back to Queensland on Friday arriving home at 5.30 pm.

Our memories we will always have ,but just a few things

The feeling of coming “home” to the ship after each zodiac excursion

The wonderful zodiac excursions with great guides, Quark really know how to pick their expedition staff

The reality of only going ashore with our guides and each of them with a gun enforces just what dangerous territory we were moving in but their training meant that any danger was reduced to a minimum. It was brought to us on the last day when a group of our walkers came across a bear at eighty metres. But there was a zodiac nearby to extract them. In all the years Quark have never had to kill a bear, and this is a very serious situation as all bears are protected and if that should ever happen, your holiday is over , whether it be the first or last day, and its a return to port, with very serious consequences.

The colours of the icebergs

And that first coming on to the pack ice and seeing the mother bear with her two cubs and the seal

Wow, what a trip and was it worth it, definitely yes. Like we said before we left home, we didn’t think the scenery would surpass the Antarctic, and we still agree that nothing can beat what’s down there in the south but nothing could take away the thrill of those bears. We were so lucky to see so many and so close.

Really one should not try to compare the two, they are both beautiful but they are both so different. As the saying goes, they really are "poles apart”

I.m sure our bear is saying “See you again next time”

Poo being Poo

No need to tell you what sort of a time Poo had.

Whether it be out doing what he enjoys most

Watching icebergs from the zodiac

Wishing he had Chivas to go with it

He might have slept on the way back to the boat but he was straight back on the computer to download

Never to be outdone, no fridges in the cabins and hot beer from Longyearbyen, he soon found a way to overcome. It might have been 20 odd degrees in the cabin, but out on the window sill it was still freezing

One Must Never Assume

Sitting in the hotel foyer in Longyearbyen, the morning our cruise was to depart I noticed an old couple with Quark labels on their packs. My thoughts were, gosh, how is that old man going to manage all the walking and climbing into zodiacs that is going to be happening on this cruise.

Well, once under sail it didn’t take long for me to find that my “old man” was no other than Michael Westmacott, one of the mountaineers who was part of Hilary’s party on the 1953 successful conquering of Everest. (Once back in Sydney I took a quick look again at Hilary’s book and he played a very important part in the expedition.)

What a wonderful man and he and his wife Sally made for the most entertaining company when we were able to sit with them at meal times. What a life. He is still very active in keeping a database of all climbers to the Everest region and when on trips ashore put a lot of us to shame when it came to walking and climbing. And the fact that he is now 84 years old, incredible.

Birds and Animals of the Arctic

Have to say that other than birds, they were few sightings of animals up here on the tundra.

In sure numbers you would never be able to guess just how many birds there are here

On cliff faces

 

On ice

Of course the nicest of the arctic I think, the puffin

We saw reindeer, some on ice and some on the green tundra

Not many seals around, but then why would they be up on the ice with polar bears around, you saw the earlier photo of the kill on the ice. No doubt they keep themselves in the water under the ice where its safer. Thanks Sue and Allan for this photo. I missed this one. Must have been arguing with Poo over exposures.

The Walrus. Well, what can I say. We walked for so long and had to be so quiet to get to this herd of walrus. We stood for soooo long and not a movement. Poo whispered “their stuffed” but all of a sudden one slight movement from one

More action from the next days group we came across

Then you could read what this fellow was saying “give me my personal space”

Poo’s Polar Plunge

When on this ship in Antarctica Poo didn’t attempt to try the waters. He tells me this time that it was a regret so when the time came for the Polar Plunge he was all in. Don’t really feel he did Qantas proud in their pyjamas, but I forgot the swimmers, so they were the next best thing.

Only Poo would be stupid enough to stop in that cold water and wave to the crowd before the return

I.m sure they all go into that freezing water for the two nips of vodka they are rewarded with when they get back up the gang plank

Our Up Close and Personal Bear

When an announcement comes over the speaker “Bear on Ice” you would not believe how fast forty-five people can jump out of bed, on with the yellow parkas and make it out on deck or to the bridge. That’s what makes this ship so great. Whatever time day or night, a bear is spotted from the bridge its all up.

This bear was lying on the ice at three in the morning. During the next half hour he amazed us. He walked around,looked at us, came a little closer, went back to lying and rolling, then slowly made up his mind he would take a look. Absolutely out of this world stuff.

The number of times he had to cross over onto ice and he still wanted to have a look at us

Bears, What We Came For

Bears were high on the list for this trip, and you can never be sure you are going to find them, but its what makes a trip here to Svalabard so wonderful. With a Captain who just delights in finding bears on the ice, we were so lucky. Twenty-one bear sightings in all and to see these creatures in their natural habitat makes it even more special.

Our first bear sighting, a lone bear walking along the shore. We watched this one from the zodiac. He was wearing a GPS collar, part of the tracking program up here. The only bear we sighted in the program.

Our second bear, we nicknamed “Salad Bear”. Sadly eating green grass on the side of a hill. Really not the food to keep her alive till the ice comes back.

The wonderful sight of a mother bear on the ice with two babies we will always remember. We saw two of these threesomes.

These babies were so cute as they jumped across the ice. Baby 1

Baby 2

Ooops, didn’t quite make it

They continued to roll on their backs, to cool off

This was one of my best moments. After entertaining us for quite some time,mother bear turns off and takes her cubs off into the distance to do what bears to best. And after being woken by the captain at 2.am we also went back to bed.

One sad moment, we came across a recent kill. Actually the bear was still eating as the ship came out of the fog. We know the bears have got to live, but sadly another seal has died. One thing most noticeable, very few seals lying on the ice. No doubt they have learnt that to survive here they have to keep themselves hidden from the bears.

Beautiful Scenery

So much to look at and take in, be it from the ship, landings ashore or cruising from the zodiacs.

Glaciers abound

Sheer cliffs teeming with birds

Icebergs in all shapes and colours

On Our Way

We sailed from Longyearbyen with high hopes of bear sightings during the next 11 days but as always no promises. Our route that takes us all round these islands will take us north above the 80 deg line, but naturally it all depends on the amount of ice and the shifting winds. But being a russian icebreaker, this ship is built to take it.

Because we knew the bar attendant from our Antarctic voyage would be on the ship we carried from Australia a kangaroo. He now sits proudly between the polar bear and the penquin on the ships bar.

We have made many landings and its surprising to see the different terrain. Its all so varied.

They expect these driftwood logs may have come from Canada

Flowers scattered over some

Top of the World

We’re finally here, on what we worked out to be a 42 hour trip since leaving home and arriving here in Longyearbyen. 74 – 81 N and 10 –35 E

Longyearbyen is a small mining town, the highest town in the world. What started out as a whaling station back in 1600 has now become a mining industry and research centre with tourism third on the list. Its situated on the island of Spitsbergen and with other islands makes up the Svalbard Archipelago. Norway was granted sovereignty in 1925. Its around all these islands we will be sailing when we leave from here tomorrow.

A typical mining town, not what you could call a pretty town, but if the scenery we saw from the plane on the way in is anything to go by we should be in for better things to come in the days ahead.

The main street

The glacier at the top end of town

By looking at the houses you can see that this is a land where the sun sets in October and total darkness prevails till February. And temperatures can be –20 to –30 c . Not a lot of cars but snowmobiles everywhere. Hundreds of them.

Just by looking at the bus stop, you can tell how deep the snow must be

Signs of mining everywhere, even though its a long time since these buckets have been used

Being summer, and now with 24 hour daylight little flowers and arctic cotton bobbing up everywhere

Now as far as we are from home, this sign on the side of a building had us perplexed

“please explain”

Tomorrow afternoon we sail . The Shokalsky to again be our home for the next 11 days. So hoping there’s lots more to report when we talk again.

Camping Again At Last

Seems we just have not had time this last while to get to go camping. What with overseas trips taking up our days, life has been hectic but then we would have been silly not to use the benefit of having a daughter working for an airline while we had the opportunity . And as we are not getting any younger, the adventurous trips are best being done while we can.

But we were able to organize the trip we try to have each year to celebrate “Christmas in July” down by the river. Six vans this time. The weather was wonderful, although just a little chilly. We had our usual good time. Bush camping in a beautiful place with good company, good food and good wine. What more could you ask for.

The beautiful river, our favourite camping spot

Plenty of room to move

Most of our five days was spent sitting round the fire

Lets hope the next trip to the river won’t be too far away.

The Animals of Kruger

Where do I start. Naturally there were impala, but once again we spent lots of time photographing the elephants. What is it about them, no doubt its their size. We visited the elephant house at Letaba and this was really worth a look.

And some more

The smallest one we saw

These had no trouble drinking from this tank

Saw plenty of wilderbeasts

They ran a lot with the zebras

This one just made its getaway, nasty gash

Just like at Chobe, lots of buffalo

Kudu were here in great numbers too, just like Chobe

Sadly a Kudu was the only kill we saw and it was being eaten by lions. This spotted hyena had been eating through the night. ( Note the blood on the neck). We only saw the one hyena but at night at both camps we could hear them.

Monkeys always win our hearts

Giraffes again, this one must be getting on in years, see how dark his colouring is

When your this big, naturally they give you right of way

Now we were a fair way away, and needed binoculars, but this is a leopard in the tree, sorry not a good photo

A long drive back to Johannesburg, another night and more time to spend with “family” ,seeing more sights in that very large city on Friday and it was to the airport and a very comfortable ride home on the flying kangaroo. Thanks kids for taking us with you and giving us a wonderful taste for Africa.

Kruger National Park

We had an early start for our six hour drive to the Park. We entered the park and drove then to our first camp called Letaba. Great place to start our four days in this park. Accomodation was in great little huts . Satara Camp was the other camp we stayed in at the other end of the park. I didn’t realize the size of this park. Its huge. I think about 400 or more klms long. And quite wide.

These huts were all self-contained with frig, stove, bar-b-que, crockery. So we were able to cook all our own meals. The camps were all made saf e with electric fences so no dangerous animals could enter but this little honey badger was in and having a ball.

And the scenery was great

Hippos at the rivers here too

Many beautiful birds, but so hard to photograph

The Real World in Zimbabwe

We left Chobe and drove back over the Botswana border into Zimbabwe. Within five klms of being in this corrupt country we saw it first hand. We were stopped on the side of the road by a police officer and his offsider with AK47 in hand. He declared our driver’s licence wasn’t up to date (which it was) and wanted money. Our driver called his bluff, and started to load our luggage into the next bus that came along and told him he was leaving him with his vehicle and we would all be going on and he then would have to explain to his superiors why there was a vehicle sitting on the side of the road. Once he realized he wasn’t getting his money he gave back the licence and let us go. Seeing the four of us he no doubt saw a chance of us paying up just to get on our way to the airport. They tell us the corruption starts at the top and goes all the way down.

Anyway we arrived at Victoria Falls airport in time to catch our plane back to Johannesburg. Lucky too, they changed the route and flew to Livingstone in Zambia,so enroute we got another great view of the falls from the air.Back in Johannesburg we picked up our rental vehicle from the airport and spent another enjoyable evening with Graham’s family.

Sorry no photo, would you be game to point a camera at a guy with an AK47? Not in that country!

Too Many to Mention

Just no time to show all the animals we’ve seen in the last few days. Could probably say Impala have the most numbers here in Chobe

Hippos everywhere up and down the river

Worthogs, so ugly, only their mother could luv them

Plenty of buffalo

Crocodiles all up the river

And this little one really won our hearts. How’s this for the perfect family

Every game drive ended each night at a spot by the river for sunset drinks and savouries

Last picture of the night

Can’t Get Much Higher Than This

Giraffes have always been one of my favourite animals . So cute

Would You Want to be Any Closer Than This?

We had the most amazing encounter with lions. Nine sightings in all. This shows the grab handle of the game truck. We were that close

Yes she came along and lay down right beside us, she and her mate had just tried to chase two antelopes.

Then a big yawn

More shots of her stalking and watching

Then very late at sundown we came across our only two male lions

The Elephants of Chobe

This park has lots and lots of elephants and it is just great to sit and watch them. This first little fellow Poo nicknamed him Bend it Like Beckem from Botswana. He was getting in practice for the Soccer World Cup 2010. So what, a stone is as good as a soccer ball any day.

This fellow had just had his swim

We were able to sit on the boat, enjoy an afternoon drink and watch these come down for theirs

Chobe Game Lodge

Well, this place is amazing. A five-star game lodge in a National Park . This is the place where out under a tree in the grounds Elizabeth Taylor married Richard Burton the second time round. Situated on the Chobe River in Botswana. Just imagine sitting on your balcony and you see two impala race along the bank in front of you and then see they are being chased by a lion.

Everything is organized for you, you are taken on game drives twice a day, then a boat cruise as well, so its a very busy time. Then you have to fit in the three meals a day, so hardly time between activities to download photos .

Victoria Falls

Tuesday we flew British Airways to Victoria Falls and once again you can rely on Trip Advisor to p0int you in the the right direction for somewhere to stay. We stayed in a great B&B. And a very safe town. Zimbabwe has such a bad name but we felt perfectly safe and very friendly people. The first evening we had a beautiful meal at a hotel overlooking a waterhole, and just on dusk, down came twelve elephants. What a sight. To be sitting on the deck for pre.dinner drinks and be within sight of these huge creatures kicking up the dust and playing in the water. Then a huge herd of buffalo came to join them. Wow just magic. Our first night in the wilds of Africa and we saw that. Next morning we walked to the town area and then on to the falls. I know, having seen Iguacu Falls these are in my opinion not as good, but they are still a sight to behold. This season has been the wettest in forty years and there is so much water flowing down the Zambezi.

After lunch we took a helicopter flight over the falls and this is the best way to truly see just what these falls are like. We had the chopper all to ourselves which meant we all had a window seat and were not squashed in as is the norm. Just look how much water is coming down the river, taken through the perspex of the chopper

Notice the spray as the water cascades over

After that we went on a sunset boat cruise and we’re lucky to see some elephants swimming across the Zambezi River, and its quite a wide river

Then our first sighting of a hippo

Then true to name we saw our sunset

Wednesday morning we left Victoria Falls town and called in on a local school to give them all the school books and stationery we had taken for them. The Headmaster took us to his office and told us of his school. How many Aussie principals go to work each day in a suit and tie. And the children were just wonderful. If only the country could get a different leader they could have a future. Then it was back on the road till we got to the border post for our entry into Botswana. A much nicer country, roads were better, just overall you could see the difference. We changed vehicles there to continue on to Chobe Game Lodge in the National Park.

We’ve arrived

We are here in Johannesburg. Had a great trip to Sydney and then on to here on Sunday. Graham’s parents have shown us this city and today we fly to Victoria Falls. Will talk to you from up there. Luv to all

Emus or Elephants

We sure never know where our life can take us.We have an opportunity to have a couple of weeks away in June.

Now for the last three winters, I have been endeavouring to get to the Diamantina National Park in South-west Queensland. Along with some other parks, Welford, Idalia, Lochern, Bladensberg, Lark Quarry and the Combo Waterhole. And every year something prevents us from getting there. Last year it was getting back from the UK late, because of the air traffic with the Popes visit to this country. Forgotten the previous years reasons but this year was looking good. And after all the rains, no doubt the countryside would be good too.

So, its decided, we're going!! It will be a campertrailer trip, rather than the caravan so the Cub is brought out of hibernation from down the shed, dusted off and parked in the front yard. Maps all out and fuel quantities worked out. 15th June will be take-off day.

Now we have just had a phone call from our daughter and her new husband. “Will you come to Africa with us."We have talked of going with them at some stage, but not expecting it so soon. This June trip is really meant as their honeymoon , so I suppose we can’t be all that bad as in-laws if they are prepared to have us along.(Perhaps Graham hasn’t known us long enough.)

So you guessed it, looks like the camper will be going back down the paddock to the shed. Perhaps someone up there knows more than me and that I'm just not meant to be going to the Diamantina.

So we leave Brisbane for Sydney on saturday night the 13th, and hope to fly to Johannesburg on the sunday. Then its Victoria Falls and the Game Parks.

I’ll keep you posted

Home Sweet Home

Well we are back into the everyday life again, so there will not be a lot to report till July 29 comes around when we leave for the Arctic. Same boat, the Akademik Shokalskiy, just the opposite end of the world.

A daughters wedding sees us heading for Palm Cove, Cairns soon but other than that we expect life to be very quiet as we look forward to the next trip.

Talk to you later.

Another Off the Bucket List

Well, time has come and its nearly all over. We have arrived in Santiago and have some time here to have a look at this city and then its time to make our way home.

We have done the usual city tour. Santiago is a nice city,but as you know, cities are not our favourite places. Just a few photos from what we have seen this morning.

The presidents palace

We were lucky to be taken inside the stock exchange, a beautiful old building, but no photos inside.

The main cathedral

We were quiet amazed at the amount of green park areas and well kept

We leave here tonight and all I can say is that this has been one of the best holidays that we have ever had. Okay, we enjoy all our trips but this one goes up there to the top of the list. We have seen the most remarkable sights and have met wonderful people .

We will remember it all but I do know Antarctica will always be a special place for us. The sights and feelings that we saw and had there just cannot be put into words.

But we come home happy that we have done here what we came to do and ready to start planning the next adventure.

The Arctic, here we come.

Yes, We’ve Done It

Yes, we’ve slept on an airport bench. The first hiccup on this trip happened when we arrived at Juliacca Airport for our flight back to Lima scheduled for 9pm. We sat and waited for the plane to come in that was to take us to Lima. Juliacca is a little place with just three planes a day and not a real flash airport. Well when one hour after departure time and we are still sitting there. Another hour later when they brought out the urn and paper cups and then a huge big plate of ham and cheese sandwiches we knew things were not looking up. Of course , we were the only english speaking passengers, so could get no information from anyone as to what was going on. All announcements over the PA System were in spanish, and we could see the mood of some of our fellow passengers was not good. Poo thought he may have to intervene in a punch up between airport officials and a couple of them. They came and told us in broken english at 11pm that they had a mechanical problem with the plane and in another hour it should arrive. So finally it arrived and at 12.20am we were able to leave Juliacca.

Now the problem was that we were to connect from Lima to Santiago with the 1.05am flight. Well with a 1hour 20 minute plane trip there was no way we were going to make that flight. And our luggage had been checked through to Santiago. So in that last hour in Juliacca I was trying to get through to them that the luggage would have to be changed to Lima and they would have to get us on the next plane out of Lima. So finally we had a seat on the 7.30 am flight which meant that we arrived in Lima at 1.45 am , checked in our luggage and had over five hours to kill.

Well, we settled in. Thank goodness for the bike chain I carry on every trip and on every trip Poo tells me that its a waste of space and extra weight. We chained up our backpacks and Poo’s camera to the seat and those Quark yellow parkas that we have carried all the way from Antarctica made good pillows It did not worry us at all, as you know my feelings on the subject, I would much rather they spend time and fix a problem with a plane than have it go down. But I will look at sleeping passengers in a different light next time I walk through an airport.

The plane took off on time and we were on our way.

An Awesome Trip on Lake Titicaca

We made our way to Puno from Cusco on the day train. Lovely scenery as we followed the river with the snow topped Andes in the distance.

Once at Puno, we were met by our guide and taken to our hotel, and wow ,another room with a view ,this time Lake Titicaca.

Next morning , we were collected and taken to the wharf to our waiting boat. Another trip with a large boat for just the two of us ,our guide and the two boat crew.

After a three hour boat ride out through the reeds that make this place so famous, (more about that later) we arrived at Amantani Island where we were to spend the afternoon and night staying with a local family. This was the most wonderful experience. As I said to Poo you can travel by car, bus or train and look into the lives of these people as you flash by, but till you actually step inside their homes and meet them and spend the night with them do you see just how they live, and do you really get to know them. After being met at the dock, we walked the ten minute trail up to the home of Jullian & Lucia, our hosts.

A very modest house made by themselves and their friends and neighbors of mud brick, but a wonderful warm welcome from the family. And a view to die for.

We were then treated to a lovely lunch, cooked by Lucia at her wood stove as we sat and talked, yes, talked, with the help of our guide it was amazing how we could enjoy each others company. I then offered to help with the washing-up.

You girls have been telling me for years, I need a new kitchen. Watching Lucia cook a meal, no benches,no sink, no running water, all just done by sitting on a wooden block. Makes you think again.

After lunch they took us into the garden, and on just a small piece of grass, the rest is completely covered with healthy crops of corn, potatoes, beans and more, they showed us how they spend their time. Lucia and her daughter-in-law knitting hats from lama wool and Jullian carving from stone.

Tea time was just as enjoyable as we gathered in their small kitchen. Our room was upstairs and very comfortable with three single beds and a small table, carved again from stone by Jullian. After breakfast we said goodbye to them and made our way back down the stone path to our boat, no cars on these islands. It looks as though every family has a boat.

We then made our way to Taquile Island where we again climbed to the top, me huffing and puffing for I hadn’t realized that we are indeed even higher in altitude here than at Cusco, here it.s 3700 meters. Another lovely island with friendly, warm people. Poo took a liking to this little girl who spent some time playing with her weavings on his hands. And not even that stare. Out of character eh!

We then had lunch el fresco sitting in the square. The nicest piece of trout that I have ever eaten. Had just been brought in by the local fisherman, apparently the lake is stocked with Canadian Trout.

Then it was a half hour walk along the cliff top back down to our boat. Lovely views all the way. An enjoyable way to spend an afternoon.

Both, going and coming back from Amantani Island we travelled thru the Uros Islands. I can remember grade 5 at my school, learning about these islands of reeds that has been home to so many people for so long. Have always been fascinated by how this could be. We stopped and made a visit to one of the islands. It was wonderful to actually walk on the reeds and visit with them in their homes. The depth of the lake in this part is 15 metres, the island of reeds is about 2 metres thick, and every month a new layer of reeds has to be laid on the top to replace what rots away underneath. A lot of work but they don’t pay taxes. This photo is someone in their rowing boat taking home a new layer.

Notice how even their boats are made of reeds

This is the island we stopped at and spent half and hour with the families. Sat inside their bedroom and talked to them. Showed us how they made the ropes to tie the reeds together. Very interesting

Expect to see Poo in his new hat next winter. He’ll be a man of many hats what with his penguin one and now this

Even the pigs have their own reed island

On the way thru the islands, we passed this girl and her brother, she wouldn’ t have been more than 11, rowing for all she was worth

Then we passed the high school bus. There is a primary school on an island but the older children go to Puno each day

Then we gazed up at our hotel. See why our view was so good from our room. Looks like a cruise ship.

The hotel being on the lake, we were taken by our boat straight to the hotel dock,with just another walk up the hill.

How lucky to get there and find we were given a suite. That’s twice we have come back to our hotel from an excursion away and been given an upgrade. See what I mean about the view.Looking out over the lake and the reeds.

So this afternoon we leave here by road for Juliacca, and then its a flight to Lima and Santiago. Talk to you from there if possible.

Machu Picchu – Lost City of the Incas

Well, this trip has been incredible, each part has been absolutely wonderful and all different in their own way.

We commenced our trip to Machu Picchu by catching the Vistadome train and beginning our journey by following the river up the gorge to the village of Aqua Calientes.

Then it was a bus ride up the mountain on the switchback road (no cars allowed) to the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Hotel which was our base for two nights.

As soon as we had checked in Pasquale took us for our guided tour of the “Lost City of the Incas” We have all seen the photo which adorns all travel magazines, well they are lucky, they get to take their photos with nobody in sight. This place was crawling with tourists, but we did our best and then went back in the afternoon when the tourists had all departed back down the mountain.

Our views of this most interesting place

The view from the Entrance Gate to their City

You just wonder as to how they were able to build this back in what is thought to be the 1400.s and so much detail. Water ducts all the way through, terraces for farmlands, just amazing. Just look at the quality of the stonework.

Llamas roam free

For the energetic ones who want to walk the four day trail this is where the trail reaches the Sun Gate and makes its way down to the City

This is the advantage of staying at the Sanctuary Lodge, you are at the park and the entrance is just a couple of steps away. We planned this trip so as to stay an extra night, just in case we struck bad weather, February being the rainy season and this also gave us the advantage of being able to be at the entrance when the gates open at 6.00am so we were up early and got another view this time under mist. See just how high up this little hut is.

Well this is it at 6.00am in the mist when we climbed up to the top to get a good view

And the views from the top

Now that mountain that dominates the pictures we see of Machu Picchu is actually Huayna Picchu or known as Young Mountain. The mountain that has the name of Machu Picchu is actually to the left as one makes their way down the Inca Trail. Here’s a shot looking up at the real Machu Picchu.

After spending hours climbing up and down, Poo still had energy left.

And one self-portrait

Another first time and it was a humming bird. Never seen one in the real before . So small and cute and don’t stop still for long. Apparently Machu Picchu is home to thousands of them.

Well, now its back to Cusco on the train, and tomorrow we leave by train again for our trip down through the Andes to Lake Titicaca.

Talk again when in email range.

On the Yellow Bus

This trip has been so easy. At each city we have been met by our guide and driver and we have travelled on our own with them for the entire time we are in their area. I must say Jen from Natural Focus in Melbourne has done a wonderful job in bringing this trip together.

For the Cusco -Machu Picchu area we have travelled in what has become to us as the “Yellow Bus”.Such a big bus for just four people. Pasquale our Guide and Migule our driver with Poo at one of our stops.

Don’t you love the little symbol on the side of the bus

We left Cusco and drove down,thank goodness, from that altitude, to the Sacred Valley. All along the way when you stop to look at the view, there is always someone who wants their photo taken.

We stopped at a Tourist Attraction run by a community of locals trying to keep alive the art of spinning and weaving . Lamas and Al Paccas and very friendly ones at that.

Women sitting weaving with their children quietly sitting beside them

Cant imagine many aussie kids doing this all day. But then of course we didn’t notice any red cordial or fast food around. Isn’t she the cutest.

Another view of the Sacred Valley, notice the snow capped mountains in the background.

We then visited the village of Ollantaytambo and walked thru the Inca Ruins there. A bit of a climb but we made it.

It was then to our hotel for the evening and can you believe it, after a wonderful day spent with all those cute little animals, you guessed it, Poo ordered Al Pacca for his evening meal.

Cusco 3,400 Metres and Don’t You Know It

Yes, that’s 11,150 feet in the old language and boy, you sure knew when you stepped off the plane. Like Tibet, that same lightheaded feeling. Naturally you have to take it easy in the beginning so we did just a little walk around. Just a photo of the Cathedral Tower right beside our hotel on the first night.

Yesterday we were taken on our City Tour and this place just amazes you. Can you imagine that the Incas built these walls in what they think was 1450.

Then of course in 1550 along came the Spanish and they knocked a lot down to build their Cathedrals etc.

One of the noticeable things is that they are not destroying the old buildings and replacing with modern structures and there is a lot of the old Inca walls still standing.

It is such a colourful city, and seems to have a very casual way of life. Everywhere you look there is someone sitting chatting.

And of course, how could you pass by these children without a photo

Well, tomorrow we leave here to go to the Sacred Valley and then after a night there we travel to Machu Picchu so will talk again from there.

Our Five Days in This Park

We have spent a lovely five days in this National Park. Here in Chile there is allowed just a couple of hotels to operate within the boundaries. This one “Salto Chico” run by Explora Group is the only one which runs a a fully organized program so everything is there for you. Guides to take you on any of the 25 organized hikes and as I already showed you a wonderful stable operation, and everything you could wish for is here for the asking. The hotel has accommodation for 100 guests and has 135 staff so you can see why we have enjoyed it so much.

As you walk in to the lobby you see a sign which I think sums it up very well.

“ Never stop Exploring”

And another one

“We shall not cease from exploration. And the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time”

We did a small hike on the first afternoon but Patagonia is known for its changeable weather and how the wind can blow so Tuesday morning we walked to the Grey Glacier. I now know how Shackleton must have felt on his way to the Pole. One step forward and three backwards

The next days walk was much more pleasant and we walked round lakes and were so lucky to see many guanacos

We then went on to the Estancia (Spanish for Station Property) outside the park where we we had a bar-b-que lunch. Notice the way here in Chile and Argtentina they cook their lambs.

We then hiked for another couple of hours getting wonderful views of the Tiers of the Park

The view we have from our room window is of the Massiff, its round on the side where we got these good views of the Tiers.

Tomorrow we leave here and back to Punta Arenas airport to fly to Santiago and then on to Lima and Machu Picchu.

Torres Del Paine National Park

We left Punta Arenas and drove the six hour drive out here to the National Park. This is our first view of one of the most beautiful views I have seen. Afraid Lake Louise has lost its spot as my most beautiful snow scene with lake

As we got closer to the hotel

View from through the room window

View from our bed

There is even windows in the bathroom so you can see the view from the toilet

This afternoon we went horse riding, not a bad backdrop eh!

Constable Plod, these next are for you. How would you like stables and tack room like this

As you can see this is only one half of each, Not bad eh, You must put this place on your must-see list. They tell us their are miles of trails.

Patagonia - And no sign of a Toothfish

Well, here we are in Punta Arenas. We arrived yesterday and once off the boat and to our hotel, we hit the markets in the square across the road . Then this morning we went on a City Sights Tour and then this afternoon to Fort Bulnes to see where the first Chilean settlement was.
Naturally,all places seem to have one of these boards. Written by the same person who wrote that speech for the Olympics.

I know what you are saying, your mother looks like a bag lady, but why is it that I always seem to attract a dog wherever I go

Poo is so wrapped in everything penguin, he just had to have a scarf to match his new hat.

Have spent some time each evening resizing some of the photos on this blog. Thats the problem with spending nights in hotel rooms. Would much rather be sitting in a National Park round a campfire like we did in North America. Poo is just like at home, turns on the TV and promptly goes to sleep. May as well, its either in spanish or has sub-titles.

We leave here in the morning for the six hour 4wd trip out to the Torres Del Paine National Park. Will be there till Friday when we come back here and fly to Santiago so dont know whether we will have internet connection while at Salto Chico or not, so till then, keep safe and love to all.

From the “Mare Australis” 18-21 February 2009

This has been a relaxing few days on board this luxury ship. (But still not our cup of tea.) I think we really needed it after the wonderful hectic time we had on the icebreaker. We are enjoying the easy life and the ship excursions, but I know when Saturday comes we will be ready to be up and going again

Sunrise from the top deck

Our cabin

One of the lounges

The Beagle Channel (again) we have actually sailed up or down this channel five times on this holiday

You can tell the strengths of the winds here by looking how the trees grow

Poo enjoying himself on the deck, and by the way, he is enjoying himself elsewhere, this ship has an openbar, we expected house wines, but no, anything you ask for. Carlos the bartender, makes a wonderful Long Island Ice Tea, need I say more.

We made a very enjoyable excursion to the Piloto and Nena Glaciers. Lots of waterfalls at this time of the year as the ice melts

Even though we have seen so many glaciers in this last fortnight, you still look in awe

Poo just waiting for ice to fall

And it did, but just a little bit

Another excursion to more penguins. This time they were Magellan Penguins

But ….none of our visits to penguin colonies goes anywhere close to the wonderful penguin experience we had on that first landing from the Akademik Shokalkskiy in Antarctica. They were just so friendly, they were trying to get into our kayaks, to chew on our trousers and someone took off their parka and in two minutes flat this was what we witnessed. It must have been so much warmer than that cold ice.

Poo is so wrapped in penguins he has himself a new hat

Cape Horn - 19th February 2009

Well we boarded our boat the “Mare Australis” and oh boy ,so different to our last eleven days at sea. We are in the minority now, the only two Aussies on board, the others mostly Europeans, and wow, this boat is getting up there towards the QE2. but still has a little way to go. We were much more at home on the Shokalskiy , we have had many laughs at watching “would be if they could be’s” trying to get on and off the zodiacs in their patent leather shoes and designer false fur coats. Poo and I are still wearing our yellow coats and rubber boots. At least Poo isn.t entertaining everybody with his jokes like he was last week as there ain’t many speaking English.

We sailed round Cape Horn and then made our landing at the bottom of the cliffs. A hundred and sixty steps to the top to view the lighthouse, the chapel and the memorial built to remember all the sailors who have not made it round this treacherous coastline.

As I stood and looked out to sea, I remembered as a young child, my grandfather telling me of how rough the passage was as he sailed round as a teenager when he left England to make a new life downunder.

Our first view of Cape Horn this morning, you can just see the lighthouse and flag

The steps we climbed

We made it to “Cape Horn” Cabo De Hornos

A view of the lighthouse, one Chilean Naval Officer and family spend twelve months living here, but no doubt for eight months of the year, they would see more visitors than if they lived in suburbia.

The Albatross Memorial in memory of the sailors who have lost their lives here

Back on Land - For one day 18th February 2009

Yesterday we landed on hard ground again, after two days of rocking and rolling up the Drake Passage. But we weathered it well. Neither of us was seasick. We are in Ushuaia again and spent yesterday on the Southernmost Railway in the World. We went to the Tierra Del Fuego National Park on the Railway and then continued on by car. Lovely scenery but as I said to Poo the sights we saw in Antaractica are going to be hardtobeat.

This afternoon we board the "Mare Australis" for our trip round Cape Horn and then thru the Chilean Fiords to Punta Arenas. More zodiac landings for the next few days but we are like pros now and are taking to it like ducks to water. This ship is much bigger than the icebreaker we have been on but I doubt if we could ever top the Akademik Shokalskiy for the wonderful time that we have had.

Talk to you again next time we are in email territory, Be good

Kayaking What Fun!

Kayaking would have had to be the best part of this trip. We have enjoyed the whole trip but to us kayaking amongst those snow covered mountains and mighty icebergs was just the most wonderful thing to be able to do and words just cant describe the feeling of what it was like.
We had ten paddlers, so thats just five kayaks and our leader so it was just so peaceful and serene to be out there. Having the lessons was worth every bit and no we didnt have to do a wet exit, I think Poo and I did us proud.

The kayaks were so easily lifted from the ship for each landing




The kayaks on the shore all ready for us



Dan our Leader




Just to prove that we did do it





Thought we were on the Titanic








We were able to do eight kayaking trips in all,and in both day and evening, and as you can see these evening times were so special





Icebergs everywhere

See What I mean

From the Ship

This Expedition Vessel “Akademik Shokalskiy” has given us the most wonderful voyage to the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula. With only 45 passengers we have become one big happy family, made up from all round the world. Have no complaints, food is excellent, shore excursions are so well organized and the weather has been absolutely perfect. The leader tells us we have been the luckiest group of the season. We had a couple of overcast days on the way down over the Drake Passage, even with a little sleet, and a little rocking but the minute we touched land, the sun was out. And as I type this we are on our way back up the Drake, and definitely the swell is a lot higher, but Poo and I are going great guns. Probably nice to experience the Drake a little rough, ‘cause no doubt that’s the way it mostly is.

Poo and the sleet on deck

Entering the Lemaire Channel, a most beautiful sight

So many icebergs, this one reminded me of a fibreglass swimming pool

On one of our trips ashore we landed at Port Lockroy , this is an old British Antarctic Base, and now acts as a museum. In this old survey hut is the most southernmost Post Office in the world. We bought our postcards and british stamps and posted them home in the bright red British Post Box. Will be interesting to see just how long they take to reach us.

You can imagine how good it was to take a look at this sled seeing of our interest in sled-dogs

Now this is the place where we first stepped foot on the Antarctic Continent. Graham and Lisa take note, this is my sixth continent, so please get busy and start organizing Africa.

Then would you believe it, here we are back on the boat in this frozen land and we are sitting on the front bow enjoying a real aussie-style bar-b-que, and its not even cold. How many restaurants have a view like this!

Seals , Lots of them

We have seen lots of seals down here, Fur, Leopard, Elephant, Crabeater. They are all down here and they too didnt seem to be worried about us

Isn.t this one just gorgeous

Perhaps not

What do you think these two are saying?

Whales and of old

We have been doing lots of whale watching, and its incredible that you can be in these waters and have the whales so close to you

See what I mean, they are so close, especially when you are in a zodiac and down at their level

Of course ,scattered over these islands, are the remains of the whaling stations of the past



A stark reminder of how they lived and died

Camping on the Ice 5 below

As our best holidays are always camping, how could we come to Antarctica and not do it.

Our tent

Our tent and the view

And not even cold enough yet, to don my bright yellow parka

There were twenty campers able to spend the night on the ice, and there had to be one who had to build the garden path

How could you not enjoy an experience like this when we had views like this to gaze upon.

Penguins, Penguins and more Penguins

Land of the penguins. We have never before seen so many penguins.Thousands of them. We have found ourselves sitting on a rock just watching the way these cute little things interact. Different types and from all ages, the older ones down to the little chicks. Even one sitting on an egg. Sadly the little chicks that have recently hatched have no chance of survival. Hatching so late in the season means they are just not going to make it.

This one has twins, know just how she feels

This little fellow is dying to get rid of his fur coat so he can go swimming too

Now we were given a briefing on the ship before we went ashore for the first time, and told in no way were we to go within 15 feet of the penguins, Fair enough, but problem is that nobody has given the penguins the same briefing

This one really took a liking to Poo

Notice that Poo is dressed in his dry suit and skirt, more about the kayaking later

On our Way 6th-17th February 2009

After spending a few hours looking at the old prison and buying the obligatory souvenirs we gathered for our bus ride to the dock to join our ship the “Akademik Shokalskiy” for our trip south.

The next two days were spent sailing the Drake Passage, well known as one of the roughest pieces of water in the world, but we were lucky, the boat rocked a little, but nothing too much. The saying here is “expect the worst and hope for the best.”

Slowly we noticed more and more ice appearing as time went on

The Southernmost Town in the World

Today we flew into Ushuaia after a very early morning start from Beunos Aries. This is the jumping off point for our Antarctic Cruise. This afternoon we met the other forty three people who will be our sailing companions for the next eleven days and we have a mixture of nationalities from all round the world. Went down town today and then wandered round close to the hotel. A couple of shots and this is the Beagle Channel we will be sailing out of tomorrow afternoon.

Its a nice little town and we will now talk again when we return

The Brazil Side of the Falls (Thursday 5th February)

This morning we ventured over to Brazil to take a look at the falls from their side. Wow. Argentina may have got the falls but Brazil sure got the view. It was the same feeling that you get when you see the Grand Canyon for the first time. Just breathtaking. We thought the view was good yesterday but to wander along the path and at every turn another waterfall comes in to view. No ordinary photo does justice to this . Hopefully I can makesome panoramas when I get home. These falls are just so wide, and the different levels. So much water. Just amazing.

This morning we flew back to Buenos Aires and at some terrible hour in the morning we fly to Ushuaia to begin the Antarctic sector of the trip. I doubt whether we will have anymore access to internet for some time now so be good and talk to you as soon as possible.

Another Day at the Falls (Argentina side) Wednesday 4th February

We were up early again today to join our guide for a tour of the falls. First was a walk to the train station where we hopped on a “”Cane train” and made our way to near the top of the falls and then walked along a long walkway over the very wide river to a most spectacular site as the water toppled over.

Then the walk back and a very peaceful boatride down the Iguazu River looking at the flora and fauna of this amazing area. We were lucky enough to get our first picture of a Woody Woodpecker.Well there was two of them actually.

Then another long walk along the higher trail stopping at the the many lookouts of these amazing falls. They are just so wide. Being a big horseshoe shape there is no way you can get them all in one picture. We even got so close we easily could have reached over for that pot of gold.

After more walking and many picture stops we boarded an old Blitz open truck and made our way over 4kls through the rain forest to the river where we boarded a jet boat for a ride to the bottom of the falls.

Then we got completely saturated as we rode right up and under the falls. What a wonderful feeling, (thank goodness for the Canon waterproof case for the G9

And even clearer view of the falls from our room this afternoon

Iguazu Falls (Argentina) Tuesday 3rd February

This morning after our first nights sleep since Sunday, we flew from Buenos Aires to Iguazu. Flying over the jungle as we flew in was amazing, and the Sheraton Hotel is the only hotel in the National Park so the view from our room of the falls is just beautiful.
From our balcony

This afternoon Poo and I walked down to the the lower level of the falls,and being the widest falls in the world, it was only possible to get a view of just a small section. Tomorrow when we go on a tour, we hope to see more, but on Thursday we go to the Brazil side, and they tell us that is the best view of all.

There is now a storm moving over the falls and its just eirie.

In Buenos Aires

Have spent our first night in South America. No pictures to show. Cameras have not been out of the bags yet. Had a good trip over, Catch you soon

Fishing at Boondooma Dam

We were lucky enough to spend time recently camping and fishing with friends at the dam

Out in their boat

Hows this for redclaw!

Cleaning the catch

Ireland

We enjoyed Ireland as well. In London our Wicked was called "Janis". Once we returned it to London and spent time there we then flew to Belfast and picked up another van This time it was "Fantasy" Definitely no raunchy slogans on the UK vans. We traveled 2798 klms in Ireland

Lunches were so easy, thats our French Roll I'm holding. Delicious bread, available everywhere, and by using the Trangia our night time meals where all home cooked and thats a great way to keep the costs down as we all know that everything is so more expensive over there.

Everywhere we went we seemed to gather a four legged friend

The Must Do's

We travelled 6209 klms in England Scotland & Wales and saw so much of the countryside.

The old saying Lands End to John O'Groats sums it up. We did'nt miss too much.

A walk across Tower Bridge and tour within

We spent hours walking the pavements of London

Naturally, a visit to the Royal Residences, this one Sandringham

And Balmoral Castle in Scotland

Poo having scones, jam and cream at her Majesty's pleasure

Being a Braveheart fan Poo had to visit Stirling in Scotland to see the bridge

England, Scotland, Wales & Ireland

After a month at home after our return from USA we took off for London. A trip where we had nothing booked ahead, just an idea of what we wanted to see. No time frame, just take it as it comes. (You have to when you rely on standby air travel.) We had decided we would hire a "Wicked Van" in the UK. The most economical way to travel, and the right size for us as we wanted to stay on the the country lanes and keep away from the freeways.We realize now that we would never have travelled the lanes we did, had we gone for any campervan that was bigger than the Wicked. People give these vans a hard time, but for us, we enjoyed it immensely. Must say that this sort of travel would not suit everybody. It's definitely not a "luxury" way of travelling but we had a fantastic time and for what money we paid and to think that we had seven weeks away and when you consider the cost of English hotels and B&Bs we came out way on top. Lucky too that we had reasonably good weather.

Two over sixties in a Wicked!!! Daughter tells us they are only for the long-haired and the unwashed but we had a great time,would even consider hiring one to travel Europe.

Naturally, The White Cliffs of Dover were on the list, as last time I was there they were shrouded in mist But not this time.

Stonehenge

Don't you just love the English Country Lanes

Oh so English

A Chopper Flight and San Francisco

If there is one thing you have to do when in Las Vegas is to take a chopper ride out to the floor of the Grand Canyon. It's a very early wake-up call, but to be on the floor of the Canyon having a champagne breakfast is just out of this world.

We spent six weeks touring America travelling through six states and Mexico and visiting 20 National Parks and reserves. We travelled a total of 8055 miles. We went as far as Texas so Poo could live his dream of seeing the "Alamo". We had a wonderful time and we will be going back to see other areas and we will be travelling the same way, camping in a 4wd where ever possible or staying in motels.

The last few days were spent in San Francisco where we rode the Cable Cars, ate yummy Clam Chowder at Pier 39 and of course walked across the Golden Gate Bridge and sailed round Alcatraz.

Sequoia National Park

Never have we seen such enormous trees as we saw in Sequoia

Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks

March is a wonderful time to visit these Parks.

Zion

Bryce, just beautiful, snow everywhere

Our Camping Habits

The most enjoyable part of this trip to the Western States of America was the time we spent camping in our rented 4wd in their State Parks and Reserves. This is the way to go if you want to really meet the people. And there is some wonderful Americans out there camping in their National Parks. Much more enjoyable than sitting alone in a motel room watching TV.

This is where America has it over the UK. Never in the UK would you be allowed to put a blowup bed in a 4WD and sleep the night. UK insists that all "motor campers" must be a "campervan with curtains"

A typical camp set-up

We lacked for nothing, all campsites have individual picnic tables and fireplaces, and all have toilets with most also having hot showers.

Of course, we go nowhere without our Trangia. Best cooking implement in the world. Poo could turn out a great meal with no trouble at all. (Don't you love the Bowie Knife.)

And you never knew each night who your camp visitors would be

The Grand Canyon

I know that everybody who has been here, says the same thing. You just stand in awe, and say WOW!

What a breathtaking site

Monument Valley

Monument Valley another site not to be missed

Route 66

Of course, what would a trip to America be without a visit to the diner while travelling along Route 66

A Step Back

Its a month to our next trip so to familiarize myself on how this blog works, I am going to try and put up some photos of our trip last March to America.

We spent some time in Yosemite National Park on this road trip, and some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen

El Capitan, Just Stunning

Koby.s First Christmas in the Valley

Koby has just spent his first Qld Christmas celebrating it with his cousins visiting from Sydney

Planning The Next One

Time has come to plan our next holiday. We always like to have a trip in the pipeline. This next one will be different. No camping in a 4WD in the Mojave Desert, no travelling in the "Wicked Van" down English country lanes. No roadside meals from the Trangia this time. We love those "primitive" holidays and are never happier when on trips that aren't quite the "norm".

We are planning a trip to Antarctica and South America in February so this next trip really isn't "our type" of holiday. I wonder how this one will be? I know we will see breathtaking scenery (if you can believe the brochures), just wonder how we will take being waited on and having deadlines to meet. We are so use to being free spirits. We enjoy camping and roughing it much more than hotels and restaurants. Will we miss Poo's one pot meals from our Trangia?

Time will tell...........

This is the first entry in mumandpoo.s blog This blog is for our family so they can follow us on our travels.